Many travelers traveling between Istanbul’s Asian and European sides have relied on the distinctive white ferries that glide across the Bosphorus Strait for almost 200 years. The boats are nevertheless highly popular in spite of the increasingly crowded seas and competition from the bridges and the underwater metro line of the Turkish megacity.Sehir Hatlari, the primary operator, transports at least 40 million passengers annually.Adil Bali, an expert on the history of Istanbul’s ferries, grinned and said, “Any view of Istanbul must include Maiden’s Tower, a ferry, and a seagull,” alluding to a small rocky outcrop near the southern entry to the Bosphorus.“It is one of the few cities in the world that can be crossed by sea, so the ferries are indispensable here,” he told AFP.When they arrived in 1843, the little fishing communities that dotted the Bosphorus’ coastlines were transformed into well-liked vacation spots. Later, wooden palaces with a view of the water were constructed, which increased trade. The only means to travel between Istanbul’s Asian and European sides until the first Bosphorus bridge was constructed in 1973 was by boat, and this experience is still a crucial component of the city’s allure today.The waters have grown more congested, according to Captain Ekrem Ozcelik, who is in charge of the Pasabahce, the flagship of Sehir Hatlari’s 30 ships.He said, “There’s a lot more traffic on the water,” referring to the cargo ships, tankers, and containers that travel through the strait that connects the Black Sea to the Aegean through the Dardanelles and the Sea of Marmara. Additionally, cruise ships and private boats traverse one of the busiest waterways in the world, with 41,300 vessels passing through in 2024, or an average of 113 every day, according to government estimates.Ozcelik told AFP, “Navigating the waters of Istanbul requires a certain amount of experience,” referring to the strait’s violent currents, which may become especially challenging when strong southwesterly winds whip up waves as high as three meters (10 feet).Ozcelik, who was raised in a family of fishermen and sailors, claimed that his childhood ambition was to wear a captain’s uniform and white cap. At 52, he relishes the independence of sailing and the recognition that comes with his line of work. “Being a captain in the heart of Istanbul is a source of great pride.” The Pasabahce, which has a crew of nine, primarily travels the 20-minute journey between the European city of Besiktas and the Asian neighborhood of Kadikoy.However, a 24-year-old sailor named Burak Temiz told AFP that even that brief journey can be challenging.The ferries were familiar to Ibrahim Bayus, a 62-year-old engineer who was born on Buyukada, the largest of the neighboring Princes’ Islands in the Sea of Marmara.“As a boy, I often forgot to bring money, but the captain knew me,” he laughed. Three students on Buyukada came to ask for his assistance, according to Captain Ozcelik, who remembers that the service was halted in the event of snow, fog, or a severe storm.“Traffic had been suspended, but they informed me that they would fail the entire year if they were unable to pass their exams. I then brought them to Kadikoy. He grinned, “And they all passed.” He told AFP that the students continue to come to see him often.
